OK, Cory, I'm going to have to call you wrong as far as air pressure. I've been trained to know most things about common hardware and operating system functionality. I'm no more than a month away from becoming a certified computer technician. I know for a fact that it is extremely bad to have any high pressure air flow in a case. It do not matter if the air is cool or not, and just because there is more air does in no way mean cooling would be better. The problem with high pressure is that it leaves pockets
of air just sitting there, not moving at all. This causes heat to build. If there is a low pressure, then all the air in the case is going to come out - that's how cases are built. The advantage to this is that cool air will also be pulled in from the outside (with or without the help of fans - however it is much better to have fans). This is why "exhaust > intake" as you put it. This "exhaust" from the computer is not more important because it takes out heated air; it's more important just because it takes out air - this is why every
computer case at the very least (overclocking or not) needs an fan to push out the air. The "intake" is lesser mostly because it's more about circulation than it is about cool air in and warm air out. Anyway, the point is that you should always
have a low pressure in the case (not a major low pressure, just more air taken out than is being put in).
Now then, I'm afraid I'm going to have to disagree with your methods, Cory, as for using firstly and strictly the BIOS (rather, the CMOS Setup) to overclock. This is extremely dangerous. In all sense, it's much better to use software to setup an overclocked computer than the CMOS Setup. Software allows you to diagnose problems and potential problems a great deal. Software also allows for the system to boot before
the overclocking takes affect. Now, just for instance, if you overclocked with the CMOS Setup to make your Intel go from 2.19GHz to 2.5GHz, several things could/would happen upon saving the settings and rebooting: nothing would appear on the screen, the computer would not respond to anything except pulling the plug, the computer would give a constant (or, if possible, a successive) beep, after so long with the computer turned on, the CPU of the processor would actually begin to fuse it's physical switches, if the FSB was also configured to go along with this, the motherboard's north bridge would begin to overheat and soon start fusing it's own switches, and finally, you would not
be able to get back into the CMOS Setup to correct your mistake. This is quite a nasty predicament, right? The only way(s) you could correct this problem is by taking out the motherboard battery, waiting ten (10) seconds, and putting it back in without touching anything else on the motherboard, and if
your motherboard has a jumper to reset the CMOS configurations, and your can find it, then you could also reset it by putting a spare shunt on the jumper correctly for about five (5) seconds and then removing it without, of course, touching anything else on the motherboard. Either way, if you do this, then you will have to go back into the CMOS Setup, correct the time, and restore any and all non-default settings (customizations). This was just an overall nasty scenario, wasn't it? Just because you want that extra 0.31GHz... Now, for the sake of my sanity and for those reading this incredibly long explanation, I'm going to put a smiley after this sentence and then explain what would happen with software!
Hmmm... What if you did this with software? If you used a compatible software to overclock your computer's processor and FSB, and you overclocked from the same (2.19GHz) to the same (2.5GHz), then the following could/would happen upon confirming and applying the change: depending on the video card and processor, the screen might freeze entirely (including the mouse), or (if the OS is a newer version of Windows) the infamous Blue Screen of Death would come up and the computer would reboot, or (if the OS is anything other Windows with a somewhat good diagnostics kernel) the environment would change to a simple text-based error display and the computer would reboot. Upon reboot, you would be lectured by the computer's active OS, stating a summary of what it knows happened and possibly giving an option to see the technical errors (in memory and I/O calls). If the overclocking software was set to auto-start (which, by the way, you shouldn't ever do the first time) then it might want to overclock it again (if it saved it in a file/registry key) to the same level, which would potentially create the exact same
thing happen. However, there is quite an easy fix for this on Windows systems, which is just simply booting in Safe Mode and removing the startup entry. On any other OS, there should be a similar mode, whereby only completely needed services are started - this will also allow you to remove the startup entry. Now, was this as awful as configuring it through the CMOS Setup? Think about it
The only time I, myself, would ever
actually overclock through the CMOS Setup is when I completely know
that my system will boot and will be completely stable at the speed I want to configure it for. Don't get me wrong, configuring through the CMOS has it's advantages, but it's not worth it, especially if you're a novice overclocker or if you do not know how your system will act. In fact, in some instances with overclocking RAM or the FSB, the computer will boot, but the OS will not
load. This is, again, another advantage of using software to overclock your computer.
Now, about the overclocking guide... I might call upon you if (or Advent) if I'm majorly busy, however, for the sake of consistent, correct, and non-redundant data, I will try to personally manage that guide.
I'm not trying to intentionally go at you, Cory, however, I need you and everyone else learn before anyone makes a mistake they might regret. Though, if you don't like what I'm saying, you're always free to disapprove this post and lower my reputation...